A Solo Surf Adventure
It was the weeks leading up to my birthday and it just so happened that I didn’t really have any plans for the big 3-0, which landed on a Friday. I took it off from work and left it open to see what happened. I made a last minute plan that felt aligned with what I was calling in for the start of this new cycle of life around the sun. I decided my 30th birthday would be exactly what I dreamed it of being.
From a young age I always dreamed of surfing. I can’t tell you how many times I watched Blue Crush and daydreamed about surfing in Hawaii. Well, several years later, I am finally making my dreams come true.
I booked a campsite in Rhode Island and packed up my Jeep with all of the essentials: surfboard (my birthday present to myself), longboard, some food, water, wetsuit, headlamp, sleeping bag, and warm clothes. I just purchased my first surfboard and couldn’t wait to try it out. I had no idea where I was going to surf but was going to be happy as long as I got to paddle out into the Atlantic Ocean on October 5th 2018.
My drive was about 3.5 hours to the campsite. I got checked in and scoped out my site. I arrived at Point Judith Light House which is also one of the locations that is known to have a nice wave or two. Well, when I arrived I quickly realized the conditions and jagged rocks sticking out of the water were not favorable to my level of surfing, which is beginner… like, I can count on both hands how many times I have been surfing, beginner. I decided I would come back in the morning to watch the sunrise and headed down the road to Scarborough Beach. I parked and pulled out my longboard. I cruised the cement boardwalk to check the conditions. The first time I stand up paddle surfed was at this beach several years earlier. It was a torrential downpour and pretty windy, but we were determined to catch some waves that day.
On this day, it was sunny, but windy, and the waves were crashing right on the beach. I made my way back to my campsite made some dinner and crawled into my sleeping bag. I decided I would check out Matunuck Beach after watching the sunrise in the morning. Another beach on the Rhode Island shore where there is known to be a good wave.
When I woke up, the birds were singing. I rushed up, stretched quickly on the grass and took off back to Point Judith. I was just in time. The sun was coming up over the Atlantic. I knew at that moment I was going to be paddling out on my 30th Birthday.
I arrived a Matunuck and there were a few people getting suited up. I started to get nervous when I couldn’t see a direct path to the beach. I drove up and down the street a couple of times and finally saw a way. I parked and got my wetsuit on and grabbed my surf board. I headed down to the water and was so relieved to see 10 or 12 other people out there. I would not have been confident enough to go surfing by myself, I just had good faith that I wouldn’t truly be alone on my 30th Birthday.
As I attached my leash to my leg and started to make my way towards the water an older gentleman was coming out with his stand up paddle board. I asked him if he caught any waves and he responded with a very pleased, “oh Yea”! I asked him about the wave and told him it was my Birthday, at which point he shared with me that he spent his 65th birthday at that wave not too long ago. He wished me well and rad rides. I thanked him as I pushed off of the sandy bottom and began my paddle out.
It was further than it looked. I finally made it close enough to say good morning to the other wave chasers. I stayed to the outside and tried not to get in anyones way. I had never been around that many other surfers before. The sun was glistening off of the water, which was at a comfortable 68* with a wetsuit on. I have always heard horror stories about grumpy locals who get annoyed with fresh meat on their waves. I was pleased to be surrounded by people of all ages and varying skill levels, so I felt surprisingly comfortable face planting into the water a couple of times in my first few attempts at paddling into a wave.
I recently traveled to California and spent 5 days with a group of beautiful, inspiring ladies, some of which were experienced surfers. I received my first legitimate surf lesson and it could not have been more perfect. One of these wonderful mermaids shared with us, “wherever your expectations are, drop them down about 10 points”, indicating that it is easy to get eager and miss the opportunity to figure out the timing and effort necessary to catch a wave. I wish I had received that prior to my birthday, but, call it divine timing.
Long story short, I only caught and stood up on one wave. However, it was all I needed. One wave was just what I needed to seal this perfect solo surf adventure. I attempted many waves, but it was just one that made me realize that I had chosen the perfect way to begin a new revolution around the sun. It was magical to honor the dreams of the girl from many years before. I was able to reconnect with that past version of myself, with no distractions or influences from other directions. It’s moments like these that bring balance into our lives, that inspire us to keep dreaming, and that increase our vibrations on an energetic and spiritual level.
So I challenge you to this. Pick a day, maybe a birthday, maybe not, to turn off, and disconnect from your comforts. To revisit a dream from your childhood and to take the steps towards achieving that dream. Chasing your dreams, is like chasing waves… You can’t catch em’ if you don’t chase em’.
In the spirit of honoring my inner child dreamer, I took the long way home. I stopped at another beach to read, meditate and reflect on my morning. I stopped in Mystic, CT where I spent summers with my Grandmother my entire childhood. I walked along Mystic River and even ate my favorite pastry for breakfast. I can’t say enough how perfect my 30th Birthday was.
I realize now that I was not alone on my 30th birthday. There was a younger version of myself guiding me through my celebration.
How do you honor your inner child? Do you chase the same dreams?
Hey Theresa! Beautifully written- thanks for sharing! I love your adventurous spirit and I can totally relate to this post.
I left on this winter trip on my birthday- part of which is/was also solo, and with the intention of reconnecting with a part of myself that I’ve perhaps been neglecting.
It’s super easy to get caught up in day to day and lose touch with certain dreams or parts of ourselves. Cheers to you for taking action to pursue them! And I can’t wait to give surfing a go this summer!
Xoxo
Jeannette 🙂